“I believe New York can make quality red wines but we have to convince the world.”
— Cesar Baeza, 1989
At a private luncheon last month, the New York Wine and Grape Foundation (NYWGF) officially honored Cesar Baeza, a preeminent figure in the Hudson Valley’s winemaking history, with its prestigious Phyllis Feder Unity Award. The award recognizes Baeza’s legacy of leadership and building cooperation and unity in New York’s wine industry. Hosted by NYWGF’s Executive Director, Sam Filler, Baeza was joined by a small group, including Feder herself, at The Marshal, a New York City eatery owned by former NYWGF Board Member Chris Marshal, and, fittingly, where solely New York wines are on the menu.
Baeza currently consults as president of Baeza Wine Connection and spends half of his time in Chile where he oversees winemaking at the Baeza Family Cellars, but for decades he was at the forefront of New York’s wine industry, making significant contributions and avidly promoting New York wine. Ask most any winemaker or grower that has a history in the Hudson Valley, Long Island, or the Finger Lakes and they would likely recognize Baeza not only as the face of Brotherhood Winery (from 1987 to 2014), but for his passion and dedication to New York wine. One could even argue that Baeza laid the groundwork for the renaissance that the Hudson Valley wine region is experiencing today.
A Pioneering Force in New York’s Wine Industry
Our relationship with Baeza spans more than 15 years. When Hudson Valley Wine Magazine (HVWM) was just a concept in the early development stages back in 2008, Baeza was one of its first avid supporters, corralling other members of the Shawangunk Wine Trail, of which he was an active member, to have the vision to support a startup publication dedicated to promoting the region—and whose time in the spotlight he believed was long overdue.
While researching the history of Brotherhood Winery for The Story of Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery, a commemorative book celebrating the winerys 175th anniversary in 2014, HVWM‘s executive editor and author Robert Bedford didn’t have to dig too deep to find that Baeza’s accomplishments as co-owner, winemaster, and executive VP of the winery for more than 30 years were far-reaching, and many. As it is impossible to distill Baeza’s esteemed career into a few paragraphs, some highlights are noted here:
In the mid-1980s and 1990s, Baeza moved Brotherhood away from the labrusca wines they were known for, and turned it into a premium wine-producing winery. His background as winemaker in Chile, Spain, Montpellier, France, and California fueled his passion for the development of premium varietal wines, specifically made from New York grapes. He worked with contract growers and personally selected the varietals from vineyards in the Hudson Valley, Finger Lakes, and Long Island to make premium wines at Brotherhood—a process that continues today. He produced sparkling champenoise-style wines and unique vinifera blends made from grapes sourced throughout the state. Cesar’s “Mariage,” a unique wine he resourcefully developed by blending young Cabernet Sauvignon with 4-year-old Chardonnay he found aging in barrels, was hailed by press at the time as “the best red wine to come out of New York State.” This characteristic inventiveness was also in play when Riesling grapes once came to Brotherhood from the Finger Lakes, frozen. He used them to make New York’s —and probably North America’s—first Riesling Icewine back in 1988.
As winemaker and EVP, Baeza personally and passionately promoted Brotherhood during his tenure there. His enthusiasm caught the attention of the press, and he was often the subject of news articles and invited to speak at events. His wines were served at official functions, including being selected as one of two wines from each state to be served at a special U.S. State Department dinner under President Bill Clinton. The New York wine was dubbed “an American Wine with historical significance.”
Baeza embraced the heritage of the winery and was responsible for rebranding it as “Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery.” He ardently petitioned for the winery to be designated as a historic landmark. Today it is on both New York’s Register of Historic Places as well as the National Register of Historic Places. This lead to new marketing and PR opportunities, and Baeza opened up the cellars and grounds for guided tours and events which continue to this day.
Having previous experience as product developer at PepsiCo (where among other accomplishments, he was part of the team that grew the Stolichnaya Vodka brand from 30,000 cases to an astounding 1,000,000 cases), Baeza was integral in modernizing Brotherhood and setting it up for future expansion. He updated the facilities, equipment, and added key personnel. He initiated a program of “contract packaging” which includes developing, bottling and packaging wines for other vintners.
Never losing sight of his mission to make premium wines, Baeza proved that New York wines could compete with even the most prestigious California wineries.
Under Baeza’s leadership, domestic sales of Brotherhood’s New York wines expanded to 14 states, and their “New York” product line made significant inroads into the Japan and Taiwanese markets, opening doors for other New York wineries—no small feat nearly 40 years ago. In short, Baeza was integral in setting Brotherhood Winery on a course to ensure its longevity. (It is currently celebrating its 185th year.)
Never losing sight of his mission to make premium wines, Baeza proved that New York wines could compete with even the most prestigious California wineries. His success in making first-class premium wines in New York more than three decades ago helped elevate New York State’s reputation on the world stage at a time when few thought it possible. His legacy is enduring.
Always approachable and eager to discuss his wealth of winemaking and grape growing knowledge with budding winemakers and vineyardists, Baeza remains an understated statesman for the region and committed promoter of New York wine. Congratulations, Cesar!
