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The Convivial Table gets down and dirty

By Brigit Binns

AMERICANS DON’T HAVE the same passion for lamb as our European cousins, and I’ve never quite understood the reason. “Gamey” is the term most often used—but when is the last time the utterers of such a descriptor bit down into a luscious, delicate little chop, the epitome of late-summer’s gradual flight toward the comfort food of fall? Lamb rib chops are truly the height of elegance, especially if the bones are “Frenched,” which makes them so easy to pop into your mouth that I think of them as “Lamb Lollipops.”

We don’t often think of serving white wine with lamb, but Riesling has more character and backbone than many summer whites, particularly Pinot Grigio and other light varietals. We enjoyed this dish one mid-summer night with a Riesling from Hudson-Chatham Winery, whose subtle acidity is just the ticket to balance the richness of the lamb—and far more welcome at this time of year than any red varietal. If you can find the lovely Kedem Riesling Rosé, it will also make a perfect partner for these sweet and sassy little chops.

Perfect to pair with my grilled lamb chops:
Hudson-Chatham Riesling
Kedem Estates Riesling Rosé

The author, or co-author, of twenty-one cookbooks, many of them for Williams-Sonoma, Brigit has cooked on several continents and in many cities. She likes her present kitchen—with its view of the beautiful Hudson River—better than any of the others. More about Brigit Binns at

Hudson Valley Wine magazine Summer 2014 issue

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